grubbin'

Restaurants...a few Córdoba faves. 

Meson de la Luna- Typical Andalusian cuisine. Borders the old section of Córdoba (la judería). Really great outdoor location. Not too expensive, entrees range from about 8 to 16 euros. Try the gazpacho. Located on Calle Luna--before entering la judería through puerto Almódovar, go right for no more than 5 minuets, can't miss it. 

El Churrasco- Córdoba's most famous traditional restaurant. Huge wine selection, great typical Spanish food. Well known for their Iberian ham. A bit more on the expensive side. Calle Romero 16, for more info visit www.elchurrasco.com. 

Restaurante Hammam- There's a strong Arab influence in Córdoba. This restaurant blends the two types of cuisine. Fun atmosphere--the good food outweighs the awkwardness of the belly dancer. Good hummus, fresh seafood. Prices are midrange, entrees are about 12 to 15 euros. Calle Corregidor Luís de la Cerda 51. 

www.restaurantehammam.es 

what not to wear

Style in Spain is...different. 

We're mainly speaking for Córdoba, but truthfully, from what we've seen, not much changes as you go more north. You'd think that a country bordering France (the fashion center of the world) would be somewhat fashion forward...not the case. 

Colors are bright, patterns clash, makeup is thick and hair ties always match shoelaces. So if you're coming to Spain looking for great shopping, prepare to be a little disappointed (really, go to France, people make style look effortless...it's unbelievable...more to come). 

Yea, the style's bad in Spain, but there are a few European style norms that can be followed.

No one wears sweats...unless maybe you're going to the gym. If you wear sweats to class, you're asking for an unbelievable amount of stares. 

It's currently 80 degrees in Córdoba, but because it's March people cannot fathom the idea of wearing sandals. We can't even begin to explain how many Spaniards ask us if our feet are cold on a daily basis. Europeans dress for the season, not the temperature. 

Flip flops are for the beach. Tennis shoes are for the gym (dead tourist giveaway).

In general, Europeans are more proper. No one leaves the gym without showering and doing their hair and makeup. People look at us like we're insane if we stop at the supermarket on the way home in our work out clothes...tisk tisk. 

A little Almódovar

We're taking a class on Pedro Almódovar, a famous Spanish director--if you don't know him you should. If you've seen his newer stuff, "Volver" or "Bad Education", do yourself a favor and see his older films. 

"Carne Tremula" ("Live Flesh"), the most recent Almódovar movie we've seen, follows 3 complicated love triangles, but ultimately shows how Spain comes back to life after the dictatorship. Constant references to old and new Spain circulate throughout the film. The movie begins in an empty and dark Madrid neighborhood during Franco's reign, and seeing the streets of Madrid crowded with people and traffic during the holiday season at the end of the film is almost moving. 

And if you don't know anything about Franco and the dictatorship...here's a wikipedia link!!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Francisco_Franco

trailer...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYLgjp9yON0

underground

Our friend from Barcelona "El Catalan" told us last week that we have yet to go to a discoteca in Córdoba. The whole six months we've been here, we thought that the places we've been at until 7 in the morning were discos. Apparently, they're not. These are just the "pubs", the discos (like "Chinales") are 10 minutes outside the city and are open until 8 in the morning or later. We thought that being up until 7 in the morning in a city as small as Córdoba was intense--but no.

The Underground. We've basically ended every Thursday and Saturday (sometimes even Friday) night at this "pub" which to American standards would definitely be considered a club. Our generation of Spaniards is divided into "pijos" (the posh people) and "los hi-ppies" (the grungy people). The Underground appeals to a mainly alternative or "hippie" (more dredlocks and gypsy pants than birkenstocks and flowers) crowd, but sometimes you can find a bizarre mix of the two groups--we live for these weird nights. 

A few things you should understand about The Underground...

70% of the time, the music is straight bad. We've found ourselves jammin' to "Ghostbusters", "Lose Yourself" by Eminem, and "Insane in the Membrance" (Margaret has almost lost her mind to this one a few times). Last semester, the music was always this bad. This semester however, a new dj has come to Córdoba--he is the man. He actually plays songs from the 12 mix CD's we've given him throughout the semester, and despite the fact that 90% of the people in Underground have no idea what they're listening to, we party good. Now, somewhere between "Wonderwall" and "Love Shack" you might hear "Ready for the Floor"--feels great. 

Another thing--the place is empty until about 3:30. Really, walking in there at 2:45 you would never expect it to be totally packed within an hour. But don't fret if you get there at 3. Get a drink and embrace it. 

Bring your own toilet paper....the bathrooms are disgusting. 

The Underground is in the center, between Boulevard Gran Capitan and Calle Cruz Conde. 

tapas bars, spanish meals, etc etc

Hands down one of the most confusing parts of Spain. 

In a tapas bar, you almost always seat yourself--don't wait for a host/hostess....there rarely is one. If the place is busy and you feel like the waiters don't know you're there, wave them down or just go and order at the bar. It's not rude to wave your hand or call a waiter over. 

Prices usually vary depending on where you sit. The bar is always the cheapest, a table outside is the most expensive--an indoor table is somewhere in between. 

Spaniards don't really do breakfast--coffee, orange juice and a croissant is usually the best you can do. Lunch in Spain is the biggest and most important meal of the day, usually served between 2 and 3. In smaller Spanish cities, like Córdoba, everything shuts down (shops, schools, most restaurants)  for about 3 hours after lunch for siesta, the time to rest. Tapas are generally eaten as a snack sometime after siesta and before dinner (usually light), which comes from anywhere between 9 and 1 am. 

The bill, "la cuenta" is the most confusing part of the whole tapas experience. You won't get your check unless you ask for it--can be frustrating at first, but Spaniards have a serious "no-rush" attitude. Prepare yourself, a lot of tapas bars don't take credit cards. And remember...not to tip!! If the service has been...dank...or you've made some kind of special connection with the waiter, you can leave a small tip, but don't feel any obligation to. 

Andalucian tapas...

Salmorejo--kind of like gazpacho, thicker and made with more onion

Manchego--cheese, served with olive oil on top (good shit)

Jamón Ibérico--thin slices of ham on plate, not our fave but the world seems to love

Gambas al ajillo--garlic shrimp, lots of olive oil, really good

Revueltos--scrambled eggs, usually with pine nuts, spinach, fish, lots of types

Aceitunas--olives, probably Rebecca's favorite part of Spain

Tortilla--very Spanish, eggs and potatoes, almost like a quiche without crust

Berenjenas a la miel--typical Andalucia, fried eggplant with honey, Margaret <3

from a real spanish diva

Soy Natalia una compañera de residencia de Margarita y Rebecca. Mis cosas favoritas de ellas son la rata de Rebecca y pasar mis fiestas saltando en la cama de Margarita. Soy una reina, no me jodas. Necesitais visitar España porque si encontrais gente como yo, es muy divertido. 

the basics.

Ryanair and Easyjet are definitely the cheapest (but not always the easiest) ways to get around Europe. We've found flights to London for 100 euros round trip, and we've gotten tickets to Bruges (in Belgium) for 50 euros round trip (sometimes the airlines have special offers and you only have to pay one way, so book your tickets in advance!)

Tickets are cheap, but there are a few catches. 

First, the airlines make all of their money with their restrictions on baggage. One carry on really means ONE carry on--if you have a backpack and a small weekend bag and think you're going to get on the flight with both...you're not. The airlines make you wait in a long line to pay for your extra bag, and it's usually around 20 euros to check--so, instead of going through all of this, just pay for the extra bag online when you're buying your ticket, it's cheaper and easier. Keep in mind that overhead space is REALLY limited, everyone tries to carry their bags onboard. 

Secondly, these airlines usually fly into smaller airports in towns or cities outside of where you really think you're going. Gatwick, Stansted, and Luton airports for example are NOT in the city of London--they are each about an hour bus ride outside of the city. We found that the bus ride to and from the airports in most countries we have visited was no more than 15 euros (or pounds) one way. 

Also, there is no assigned seating on these flights. Group A boards first, group B second, and it's always a mad rush onto the plane, so prepare yourself. Bring a sweatshirt (the planes are freezing), charge your ipod (the airlines advertise the ENTIRE flight, Ryanair has its jingle on repeat), and pack your own food (drinks and snacks are overpriced). 

Not to make these airlines sound like the worst, but don't put anything valuable in a checked bag and never check a laptop. You get what you pay for.

Here are the links for the airlines:

Easyjet-  www.easyjet.com

RyanAir- www.ryanair.com

Related links, transportation in and around London: 

www.gatwickexpress.com

www.firstcapitalconnect.co.uk

www.southernrailway.com

www.nationalexpress.com

www.easyBus.co.uk

head in the sky

This is why...

"I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. 

I travel for travel's sake. 

The great affair is to move."

Robert Louis Stevenson

Where we're coming from...

Not to over share, but with some insight into our lives you can get a feel for how we like to travel. 

Hometown:

rebecca-montclair, nj    margaret-lakewood, oh

School:

rebecca-wheaton college (MA)   margaret-smith college (MA)

Major:

rebecca-spanish/latin american studies   margaret-art history/spanish

Cities We Love:

rebecca-madrid, new york, lyon   margaret-paris, salamanca, edinburgh

Music:

rebecca-the knife, bon iver   margaret-hot chip, the cure

Favorites in Spain:

rebecca-oranges, sevillanas, late dinners   margaret-coffee, botellon, goya